Martinsburg, WV
On the second floor of the terminal, run by a mother-daughter team, with windows over what is by far the biggest runway in West Virginia. The watching is unusually good: the Air National Guard's C-17 Globemasters live on the field, and heavier military visitors drop by weekly. Breakfast and lunch from 6 am, Monday through Thursday to 6, Friday and Saturday to 8, closed Sunday; there is a full bar with a 4-to-6 happy hour, the fish and chips and corn fritters get the reviews, and the kitchen caters straight to departing aircraft. The terminal around you doubles as a small aviation museum with a reading room. A proper fly-in lunch with a C-17 chaser.
Eastern WV Regional Airport, also called Shepherd Field, shares the field with the 167th Airlift Wing of the West Virginia Air National Guard — currently flying C-17 Globemaster IIIs. The 167th was the first Air Guard unit to take delivery of the C-17. The runway is 8,810 feet, 8/26, sized for the C-17. The civilian terminal occupies the south side. Martinsburg itself is an old Baltimore & Ohio Railroad town — the B&O Roundhouse Complex of 1866-72 still stands on East Race Street, the largest surviving cast-iron-framed roundhouse in the country. The town changed hands fourteen times during the Civil War; Belle Boyd, the Confederate spy who ran intelligence from her family's parlor, was arrested here at age 17 in 1862. Martinsburg is the eastern panhandle's industrial center and the closest field of size to Washington and Baltimore from the west.
Three miles south of Sharpsburg, Maryland — the site of the September 17, 1862 Battle of Antietam, the single bloodiest day in American military history. 22,717 Union and Confederate soldiers were killed, wounded, or missing in twelve hours of fighting along Antietam Creek and the cornfields, sunken road ("Bloody Lane"), and stone bridge ("Burnside Bridge") that anchor today's preserved battlefield. The tactical result was a draw, but the strategic result was Robert E. Lee's first invasion of the North turned back — which gave President Lincoln the political cover to issue the preliminary Emancipation Proclamation five days later, on September 22, 1862, transforming the Civil War from a war to preserve the Union into a war to end slavery. The battlefield preserves 3,250 acres and most major terrain features look essentially as they did in 1862 — the Dunker Church (the photograph reference point for one of the most-published images of the Civil War), the cornfield, the sunken road, Burnside Bridge over Antietam Creek. The National Cemetery on the hill holds 4,776 Union dead. Photographer Alexander Gardner's images of the battlefield dead, displayed at Mathew Brady's New York studio in October 1862, were the first time the American public saw the dead of war — and arguably the moment war photography was invented.
Harpers Ferry sits on a spit of land where the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers join and three states — West Virginia, Maryland, and Virginia — come together, walled in by steep wooded heights. Thomas Jefferson stood here in 1783 and called the view "worth a voyage across the Atlantic." Its position made it a natural arsenal town, and in October 1859 the abolitionist John Brown seized the federal armory here in a raid meant to spark a slave uprising; he was captured (by US Marines under Robert E. Lee) and hanged, but the raid lit the fuse of the Civil War. The town changed hands a reported eight times during the war. Today the lower town is preserved as a national historical park, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters sits here at the trail's symbolic midpoint, and the rivers and railroad still define the gap.
The companion to the Smithsonian's National Air and Space Museum on the Mall — and the place they put the artifacts too big for downtown. Opened in 2003 in a vast 760,000-square-foot hangar on the south side of Dulles, it holds around 200 aircraft and spacecraft and 3,000 artifacts, and the roll call is staggering: the Space Shuttle Discovery, the most-flown orbiter in history, with its re-entry scars still on the tiles; the Enola Gay; an SR-71 Blackbird; a Concorde; and the Boeing 367-80, the prototype that became the 707 and the jet age. The Donald D. Engen Observation Tower overlooks the Dulles runways — one of the best legal spots in the country to watch heavy iron work while standing next to a spaceship. Admission is free.
The turning point of the Civil War (July 1863). From 3000ft, the entire three-day battle becomes legible: Seminary Ridge (Confederate position) and Cemetery Ridge (Union position) run parallel with open farmland between them — Pickett's Charge crossed that open ground. The Round Tops, Devil's Den, and the Peach Orchard are all identifiable. The geometric patterns of monuments and cannons dot the preserved fields. Gettysburg Regional (W05) is 3nm west.